In his day-dreams, the Spaniard of the sixteenth century
saw an Eldorado in the unknown West; a land of gold and
glittering gems, of flowers and fruit, of shining sands and
crystal streams,of soft air and mild skies; where a
temperate climate and fertile soil promised bodily ease,
and unfailing health was to be gained from fountains of
youth-restoring virtue -- the Hesperia of ancient poets
realized in the New World. For this, Narvaez, De Soto, and
a host of others, sought long and traveled far, but died
without the sight; nature had provided no "Islands of the
blest," even amid the soft airs of the Pacific.
There was, however, an El Dorado there; not the fabled
clime which lured the imaginative Spaniard, but still a
land of wealth and plenty, where industry was to find a
bounteous reward, and enterprise build up a golden State.
But not for a superstitious race, ignorant of true liberty,
was this doman reserved. In the divine predestination of
history this hidden wealth was to serve the purposes of
freedom; it was to aid a civilization based on individual
thought and energy; to strengthen a free Republic, and in
the dark hour furnish the "sinews of war," in a
death-struggle with slavery. . . .
But my acquaintance in Santa Fe was of quite a
miscellaneous character -- "from the duke to the dustman."
I took a Spanish teacher (male), and the third day of my
studies "interviewed" him thus:
"Hay baile esta noche, Senor!"
"Si, Senor, quiere uste avenir? Habra Senoritas
bonitas."
"Eso quisiera yo."
The result of this attempt at Castilian was a visit to that
evening's baile (by-lay), or Mexican dance.
Americans improperly call them fandangoes, applying
the name of one kind of dance to the whole proceeding -- as
if one should call an American mind a "schottische." They
are the national amusement. All new-comers of importance
are welcomed with a public ball, and all public enterprises
are inaugurated and ended by the same.
Scene: a long room, wide enough for one cotillion and
long enough for half a dozen; a raised platform for a
first-class string-band, and a chair at the other end for
la maestra (feminine) of ceremonies, with seats
ranged against the wall for fifty or a hundred spectators.
The Mexican girls are exceedingly graceful, with very small
hands and feet and most enchanting voices; but their
features are not handsome, being dark, in the first place,
besides having an indescribable something which I imagine I
can see in all dark races, and which, for want of a term, I
call dormant tigerishness. As dancers they cannot be
excelled. They never have the set "called," as in the
States, dancing being too much a lifetime affair with them
-- something they learn as soon as they can walk. Their
cotillions are very complicated. The common waltz, about
the same as ours, is known as the Valse Redondo. But
the National dance -- the one which shows the Mexican women
to the best advantage -- is the Valse de Spachio,
which might be translated "slow waltz." The music is slow
and seemingly mournful, but the elegant movement cannot be
described. The first figure might be called a "waltzing
cotillion," ending with two lines, each senorita
opposite her partner. Thence she advances toward him with a
score of graceful gestures -- bowing, sinking, rising,
extending hands and again clasping them and retreating,
waving scarf or handkerchief, and all in perfect time and
without faulty or ungraceful motion. At length, and
apparently following the motion of the "head lady," the
couples come rapidly together, and, as the music breaks
suddenly into a lively air, are whirled to all parts of the
room in quick gallopade. This again subsides, and they
waltz back into a sort of hollow square, from which each
lady in turn issues and makes the circuit of the set in
slow waltz, tantalizing different cavaliers with feint and
retreat. It looks childish on paper, but is enchanting to
witness.
There seems to be no distinction at these public balls
on the score of character. The social indifference on that
subject would astonish most Americans. In the Stantons,
Anthonys, etc., are really in earnest in the statement that
"woman should have no worse stigma than a man for sexual
sins," they would certainly be gratified here, for the
disgrace is, at least, as great to one sex as the other.
Indeed, I think the general judgment for marital
unfaithfulness is much more severe on a man than on a
woman. The young Americans bring their mistresses to the
baile with the same indifference as the Mexicans do
their sweethearts. These "girls" are scrupulously polite,
and so unlike the same class in the States, that it can
only be accounted for from the fact that they see no
disgrace whatever in their mode of life, and feel so sort
of social degradation.
One witnesses no drunkenness, no obscene word or
gesture, nothing to offend; and the uniform testimony of
the American youths is, that they are the most faithful,
kind and affectionate women of that class in the world.
Without chastity, they still possess all the other
distinctive virtues of the sex. The force of an improving
public opinion has, in the last five years, caused many
marriages between such couples . . .
Twelve days I abode in Santa Fe, and my summing up is
about like that of the sailor who had agreed to write to
his friends of the manners and customs of the people he
visited: when shipwrecked on the coast of Patagonia he
wrote, "These people have no manners, and their customs are
disgusting." No, I am wrong there: they have a surplus of
manners; it is in morals there is a deficit. The Territory
contains about eighty thousand native Mexicans, divisible
into three classes: the genta fina, or noble bloods,
of whom there are about fifteen families; the respectable
middle classes, who may possibly amount to two thousand in
all; and the "Greasers," who make up about ninety-five per
cent. of the whole. Taking out fifteen families, it is my
solemn conviction that the property of all the other
Mexicans in the Territory will not average fifty dollars
apiece. I thought, before this trip, that Utah was the
poorest part of America; but the Mormons roll in wealth
compared to the New Mexicans. As to morals, which is the
worse, polygamy or promiscuous concubinage? That is a great
moral question which I am not competent to decide. People
who have lived among them many years confidently assert
that there are some, in fact a number, of virtuous people
among the natives. I hope it is so. Let us take it for
granted, and dismiss the subject.
|