At noon we took a swim in the Sea of
Galilee--a blessed privilege in this roasting climate--and then
lunched under a neglected old fig tree at the fountain they
call Ain-et-Tin, a hundred yards from ruined Capernaum. Every
rivulet that gurgles out of the rocks and sands of this part of
the world is dubbed with the title of "fountain," and people
familiar with the Hudson, the Great Lakes, and the Mississippi
fall into transports of admiration over them, and exhaust their
powers of composition in writing their praises. If all the
poetry and nonsense that have been discharged upon the
fountains and the bland scenery of this region were collected
in a book, in would make a most valuable volume to burn.
During luncheon, the pilgrim enthusiasts of our
party, who had been so light-headed and happy ever since they
touched holy ground that they did little but mutter incoherent
rhapsodies, could scarcely eat, so anxious were they to "take
shipping" and sail in very person upon the waters that had
borne the vessels of the Apostles. Their anxiety grew and their
excitement augmented with every fleeting moment, until my fears
were aroused and I began to have misgivings that in their
present condition they might break recklessly loose from all
considerations of prudence and buy a whole fleet of ships to
sail in instead of hiring a single one for an hour, as quiet
folk are wont to do. I trembled to think of the ruined purses
this day's performances might result in. I could not help
reflecting bodingly upon the intemperate zeal with which
middle-aged men are apt to surfeit themselves upon a seductive
folly which they have tasted for the first time. And yet I did
not feel that I had a right to be surprised at the state of
things which was giving me so much concern. These men had been
taught from infancy to revere, almost to worship, the holy
places whereon their happy eyes were resting now. For many and
many a year this very picture had visited their thoughts by day
and floated through their dreams by night. To stand before it
in the flesh--to see it as they saw it now--to sail upon the
hallowed sea, and kiss the holy soil that compassed it about;
these were aspirations they had cherished while a generation
dragged its lagging seasons by and left its furrows in their
faces and its frosts upon their hair. To look upon this
picture, and sail upon this sea, they had forsaken home and its
idols and journeyed thousands and thousands of miles, in
weariness and tribulation. What wonder that the sordid lights
of work-day prudence should pale before the glory of a hope
like theirs in the full splendor of its fruition? Let them
squander millions! I said--who speaks of money at a time like
this?
In this frame of mind I followed, as fast as I
could, the eager footsteps of the pilgrims, and stood upon the
shore of the lake, and swelled, with hat and voice, the frantic
hail they sent after the "ship" that was speeding by. It was a
success. The toilers of the sea ran in and beached their bark.
Joy sat upon every countenance.
"How much?--ask him how much, Ferguson!--how much
to take us all--eight of us and you--to Bethsaida, yonder, and
to the mouth of Jordan, and to the place where the swine ran
down into the sea--quick!--and we want to coast around
everywhere--everywhere!--all day long! --I could sail a
year in these waters!--and tell him we'll stop at Magdala and
finish at Tiberias!--ask him how much!--anything--anything
whatever!--tell him we don't care what the expense is!" (I said
to myself, I knew how it would be.)
Ferguson--(interpreting)--"He says two
napoleons--eight dollars."
One or two countenances fell. Then a pause.
"Too much!--we'll give him one!"
I shall never know how it was--I shudder yet when
I think how the place is given to miracles--but in a single
instant of time, as it seemed to me, that ship was twenty paces
from the shore, and speeding away like a frightened thing!
Eight crest-fallen creatures stood upon the shore, and oh, to
think of it! this--this--after all that overmastering ecstasy!
Oh, shameful, shameful ending, after such unseemly boasting! It
was too much like "Ho! let me at him!" followed by a prudent,
"Two of you hold him--one can hold me!"
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