A
one point I found the railroad running on trestle-work for
a mile, over a marsh filled with water four months ago, but
not dry as the hots rays of a California sun, from six
months of cloudless sky, could make it. . . . After a
year's experience it has been found necessary to raise the
whole road-bed four feet. In this work I encountered many
gangs of Chinese, in their wicker-work basket-shaped hats,
stolid, impassive air, and universal no sahvey
("don't understand") to every question. To me they all
looked alike, the same size, and seemed to have been cast
in the same mould. It hardly seemed possible that I could
get well-acquainted with one individual. But their Yankee
overseer tells me this is "all a notion at first sight";
that they see as much difference as among whites, and when
called to identify one under oath, which is often the case,
do so without difficulty. To me they appear to work very
slowly, feebly even; but the overseers credit them with
great steadiness, and aver that one does as much in a day
as an average Irishman. They use no coffee and very little
water, making tea their regular beverage, both at meals and
work.
Those employed on this road receive twenty-eight dollars
a month, boarding themselves and resting Sundays. It costs
them a dollar and a half each per week to live. They have
but two holidays, which they observe with great festivity:
the Chinese New Year's, occurring either in January or
February, as their year contains thirteen lunar months; and
the "Devil-drive," which takes place in October. Chinese
labor is only relatively cheap: in California it costs but
half that of white laborers, or even less; but in the
Eastern States the difference is too little to furnish just
grounds to that class who manifest so much horror about "an
invasion of barbarous Mongolians."
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