And now, at last, we were fairly in the renowned
SOUTH PASS,
and whirling gayly along high above the common world. We
were perched upon the extreme summit of the great range of
the Rocky Mountains, toward which we had been climbing,
patiently climbing, ceaselessly climbing, for days and
nights together--and about us was gathered a convention of
Nature's kings that stood ten, twelve, and even thirteen
thousand feet high--grand old fellows who would have to
stoop to see Mount Washington, in the twilight. We were in
such an airy elevation above the creeping populations of
the earth, that now and then when the obstructing crags
stood out of the way it seemed that we could look around
and abroad and contemplate the whole great globe, with its
dissolving views of mountains, seas and continents
stretching away through the mystery of the summer haze.
As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a
valley than a suspension bridge in the clouds--but it
strongly suggested the latter at one spot. At that place
the upper third of one or two majestic purple domes
projected above our level on either hand and gave us a
sense of a hidden great deep of mountains and plains and
valleys down about their bases which we fancied we might
see if we could step to the edge and look over. These
Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled
volumes of cloud, which shredded away from time to time and
drifted off fringed and torn, trailing their continents of
shadow after them; and catching presently on an
intercepting peak, wrapped it about and brooded there--then
shredded away again and left the purple peak, as they had
left the purple domes, downy and white with new-laid snow.
In passing, these monstrous rags of cloud hung low and
swept along right over the spectator's head, swinging their
tatters so nearly in his face that his impulse was to
shrink when they came closet. In the one place I speak of,
one could look below him upon a world of diminishing crags
and canyons leading down, down, and away to a vague plain
with a thread in it which was a road, and bunches of
feathers in it which were trees,--a pretty picture sleeping
in the sunlight--but with a darkness stealing over it and
glooming its features deeper and deeper under the frown of
a coming storm; and then, while no film or shadow marred
the noon brightness of his high perch, he could watch the
tempest break forth down there and see the lightnings leap
from crag to crag and the sheeted rain drive along the
canyon-sides, and hear the thunders peal and crash and
roar. We had this spectacle; a familiar one to many, but to
us a novelty.
We bowled along cheerily, and presently,
at the very summit (though it had been all summit to us,
and all equally level, for half an hour or more), we came
to a spring which spent its water through two outlets and
sent it in opposite directions. The conductor said that one
of those streams which we were looking at, was just
starting on a journey westward to the Gulf of California
and the Pacific Ocean, through hundreds and even thousands
of miles of desert solitudes. He said that the other was
just leaving its home among the snow-peaks on a similar
journey eastward--and we knew that long after we should
have forgotten the simple rivulet it would still be
plodding its patient way down the mountain sides, and
canyonbeds, and between the banks of the Yellowstone; and
by and by would join the broad Missouri and flow through
unknown plains and deserts and unvisited wildernesses; and
add a long and troubled pilgrimage among snags and wrecks
and sandbars; and enter the Mississippi, touch the wharves
of St. Louis and still drift on, traversing shoals and
rocky channels, then endless chains of bottomless and ample
bends, walled with unbroken forests, then mysterious byways
and secret passages among woody islands, then the chained
bends again, bordered with wide levels of shining
sugar-cane in place of the sombre forests; then by New
Orleans and still other chains of bends--and finally, after
two long months of daily and nightly harassment,
excitement, enjoyment, adventure, and awful peril of
parched throats, pumps and evaporation, pass the Gulf and
enter into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea, never
to look upon its snow-peaks again or regret them.
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at
home, and dropped it in the stream. But I put no stamp on
it and it was held for postage somewhere.
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