And now, at last, we were fairly in the renowned SOUTH
PASS, and whirling gayly along high above the common world.
We were perched upon the extreme summit of the great range of
the Rocky Mountains, toward which we had been climbing,
patiently climbing, ceaselessly climbing, for days and nights
together--and about us was gathered a convention of Nature's kings
that stood ten, twelve, and even thirteen thousand feet high--grand
old fellows who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington, in
the twilight. We were in such an airy elevation above the creeping
populations of the earth, that now and then when the obstructing
crags stood out of the way it seemed that we could look around
and abroad and contemplate the whole great globe, with its
dissolving views of mountains, seas and continents stretching away
through the mystery of the summer haze.
As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley
than a suspension bridge in the clouds--but it strongly suggested
the latter at one spot. At that place the upper third of one or two
majestic purple domes projected above our level on either hand
and gave us a sense of a hidden great deep of mountains and plains
and valleys down about their bases which we fancied we might see
if we could step to the edge and look over. These Sultans of the
fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes of cloud, which
shredded away from time to time and drifted off fringed and torn,
trailing their continents of shadow after them; and catching
presently on an intercepting peak, wrapped it about and brooded
there--then shredded away again and left the purple peak, as they
had left the purple domes, downy and white with new-laid snow.
In passing, these monstrous rags of cloud hung low and swept
along right over the spectator's head, swinging their tatters so
nearly in his face that his impulse was to shrink when they came
closet. In the one place I speak of, one could look below him upon
a world of diminishing crags and canyons leading down, down,
and away to a vague plain with a thread in it which was a road, and
bunches of feathers in it which were trees,--a pretty picture
sleeping in the sunlight--but with a darkness stealing over it and
glooming its features
deeper and deeper under the frown of a coming storm; and then,
while no film or shadow marred the noon brightness of his high
perch, he could watch the tempest break forth down there and see
the lightnings leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain drive
along the canyon-sides, and hear the thunders peal and crash and
roar. We had this spectacle; a familiar one to many, but to us a
novelty.
We bowled along cheerily, and presently, at the very summit
(though it had been all summit to us, and all equally level, for half
an hour or more), we came to a spring which spent its water
through two outlets and sent it in opposite directions. The
conductor said that one of those streams which we were looking at,
was just starting on a journey westward to the Gulf of California
and the Pacific Ocean, through hundreds and even thousands of
miles of desert solitudes. He said that the other was just leaving its
home among the snow-peaks on a similar journey eastward--and
we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple
rivulet it would still be plodding its patient way down the
mountain sides, and canyonbeds, and between the banks of the
Yellowstone; and by and by would join the broad Missouri and
flow through unknown plains and deserts and unvisited
wildernesses; and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among snags
and wrecks and sandbars; and enter the Mississippi, touch the
wharves of St. Louis and still drift on, traversing shoals and rocky
channels,
then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends, walled with
unbroken forests, then mysterious byways and secret passages
among woody islands, then the chained bends again, bordered with
wide levels of shining sugar-cane in place of the sombre forests;
then by New Orleans and still other chains of bends--and finally,
after two long months of daily and nightly harassment, excitement,
enjoyment, adventure, and awful peril of parched throats, pumps
and evaporation, pass the Gulf and enter into its rest upon the
bosom of the tropic sea, never to look upon its snow-peaks again
or regret them.
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at
home, and dropped it in the stream. But I put no stamp on it and it
was held for postage somewhere.
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